It was an interesting day to say the least. The plan was simple enough, start with a dose of culture at the RISD Museum in Providence. Reality, however, had other plans. After circling five separate parking lots, all of them packed tighter than a sardine tin, I admitted defeat. The streets were swarming with students, so I figured there must be a college nearby (spoiler, there is, Rhode Island School of Design and Brown University, both of which apparently have more cars than classrooms).
So, I abandoned the art chase and headed to the Sistine Chapel Exhibition at the Warwick Mall instead. Michelangelo’s ceiling, conveniently relocated next to a JCPenney, was actually impressive, no neck strain required. After basking in some divine inspiration, I continued south to Newport for some ocean air and history.
I wandered past the Newport Mansions, marveled in awe at The Breakers, and checked out the Cliff Walk. I also visited the Island Cemetery and Chapel, it was beautiful and peaceful. Some of the graves dated back to the 1700s. I looked all around the chapel but I couldn't see where the entrance was, I guess it was locked up. I walked around Thames Street, but the streets and the stores were pretty empty.
From there, it was on to Mystic, Connecticut, one of those postcard-perfect towns that looks like it was designed for a Hallmark movie. I strolled around the Mystic Seaport, poked into some shops, and ended the evening with an unforgettable dinner at The Mariner downtown.
Dinner was the kind of meal you remember for a while, New England clam chowder that was amazing. The owner talked about all the awards it has won. I followed up the chowder with Seafood Fra Diavolo loaded with mussels, lobster, shrimp, and homemade pumpkin pasta. Whoever thought to mix fiery marinara and autumn comfort deserves an award. I will be enjoying the other half tomorrow for breakfast!
Now I’m relaxing at my hotel, full and grateful for heated rooms and no ferry schedules. Tomorrow I’ll stay around Mystic, maybe visit the Seaport Museum, check out the Aquarium, and see what else this coastal town has to offer. I’m skipping Block Island; after yesterday’s Nantucket adventure with high winds and sideways rain, I’m content to admire the sea from dry land. Also I'm finding the end of October is not exactly the time to be walking around these seashore towns, most stores are closed.
All in all, a day full of detours, art of various sorts, sea breezes, and excellent seafood, not bad for a “Plan B” itinerary.
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