Day 27: Avocado Toast, Traffic, and Truck it Treaters

I drove from gloomy, gray Norwalk to meet my friend Ira at Tazza Café. Lunch was avocado toast and coffee,  which was very good. We talked for over an hour and a half.

The weather refused to cheer up, still dark and moody. I headed to Stepping Stones, and just as I walked up, the sun suddenly appeared, as if it had been eavesdropping. Five minutes later it started raining sideways, and the wind showed up ready to blow stuff around.

Next stop: Staten Island. My GPS suggested a route through the Bronx, Queens, Manhattan, Brooklyn, then Staten Island. No friggin’ way on a Friday afternoon. Instead, I took the scenic rebellion route, the Saw Mill Parkway, the Palisades Parkway, then onto the Turnpike and finally the Staten Island Expressway. I still hit traffic on the turnpike.

I made it just in time to dodge a small army of trick-or-treaters. Staten Island was alive with costumes, candy, and chaos. I’ll be here for a bit before heading to New Jersey to see friends. Unless something wild happens, this might be where my travel tales take a bow.

Day 26: Sea Lions, Belugas, Lighthouses, and Monsoons

Today I went to the Mystic Aquarium, which was a solid choice considering the weather. Unfortunately, the weather itself had other plans. It was cold, windy, and rainy, the kind of day when even the penguins looked like they want to stay inside. Still, the aquarium was great, with sea lions performing in the rain, glowing jellyfish doing their mesmerizing dance, and families trying to take selfies while dodging gusts of wind.

I had planned to stroll around Olde Mistick Village, but the weather felt like a scene from The Perfect Storm, so I decided to keep walking to a minimum. Instead, I drove to New Haven Harbor Lighthouse (also known as Five Mile Point Light). By the time I got there, the fog was so thick it could have starred in a horror movie. I am not entirely sure if I actually saw the lighthouse or just imagined it through the mist.

Then came a highlight, Sally’s Apizza in New Haven. It was absolutely fantastic. The crust, the sauce, the perfect balance of char, all excellent. Of course, I wished for more garlic. There is never enough garlic, that is just a universal truth. 😎

After that, I drove to Norfolk to rest for the night. Driving down I-95 in that storm felt like piloting a submarine. Sheets of rain, tire spray everywhere, wipers going full speed, and feeling like I was in a monsoon. But at least traffic was light, apparently everyone else had the good sense to stay home.

Tomorrow I will be driving into Katonah, New York, for a tour and lunch with a friend, then onward to New York City. I realized tonight that means driving through NYC on a Friday afternoon. So tomorrow’s theme will be “Patience in Action.

Day 25: Michaelangelo, the Breakers, and Chowder

It was an interesting day to say the least. The plan was simple enough, start with a dose of culture at the RISD Museum in Providence. Reality, however, had other plans. After circling five separate parking lots, all of them packed tighter than a sardine tin, I admitted defeat. The streets were swarming with students, so I figured there must be a college nearby (spoiler, there is, Rhode Island School of Design and Brown University, both of which apparently have more cars than classrooms).

So, I abandoned the art chase and headed to the Sistine Chapel Exhibition at the Warwick Mall instead. Michelangelo’s ceiling, conveniently relocated next to a JCPenney, was actually impressive, no neck strain required. After basking in some divine inspiration, I continued south to Newport for some ocean air and history.

I wandered past the Newport Mansions, marveled  in awe at The Breakers, and checked out the Cliff Walk. I also visited the Island Cemetery and Chapel, it was beautiful and peaceful.   Some of the graves dated back to the 1700s.  I looked all around the chapel but I couldn't see where the entrance was, I guess it was locked up. I walked around Thames Street, but the streets and the stores were pretty empty.

From there, it was on to Mystic, Connecticut, one of those postcard-perfect towns that looks like it was designed for a Hallmark movie. I strolled around the Mystic Seaport, poked into some shops, and ended the evening with an unforgettable dinner at The Mariner downtown.

Dinner was the kind of meal you remember for a while, New England clam chowder that  was amazing.  The owner talked about all the awards it has won.  I followed up the chowder with Seafood Fra Diavolo loaded with mussels, lobster, shrimp, and homemade pumpkin pasta. Whoever thought to mix fiery marinara and autumn comfort deserves an award. I will be enjoying the other half tomorrow for breakfast!

Now I’m relaxing at my hotel, full and grateful for heated rooms and no ferry schedules. Tomorrow I’ll stay around Mystic, maybe visit the Seaport Museum, check out the Aquarium, and see what else this coastal town has to offer. I’m skipping Block Island; after yesterday’s Nantucket adventure with high winds and sideways rain, I’m content to admire the sea from dry land. Also I'm finding the end of October is not exactly the time to be walking around these seashore towns, most stores are closed.

All in all, a day full of detours, art of various sorts, sea breezes, and excellent seafood, not bad for a “Plan B” itinerary.